I went to Yom Kippur (Jewish Day of Atonement) services at the synagogue in Quito yesterday. Alvaro's mom knows a Jewish Chilean man now living in Ecuador (who happened to be Alvaro's step-dad's classmate back in the day- a double connection!), and I got in contact with him to go to the synagogue. The security was pretty tight- I had to email a scanned copy of my passport and then flash it to get in, and there was a police presence outside. The synagogue is pretty far north in the city- I got in three different taxis only to have all three taxistas tell me that they didn't know where it was and that I should get out because they didn't want to get lost while they were broadcasting the Ecuadorian fútbol game on the radio!
I called David, Alvi's mom's friend, and he kindly offered to take me there, but that I should hurry- they were leaving soon. I ended up running (in heels!) for 15 minutes to get there, and hopped into his car all nice and smelly and disheveled. Wearing the natural, aluminum-free Tom's deodorant was definitely a poor decision. It was a lovely way to make a nice first impression on this couple that was being so nice in waiting for me and taking me there by immediately stinking up their car and breathing heavily for a few minutes. On the upside, we spent at least 10 minutes discussing how they never would have guessed that I was a gringa by the way I talk, and that my accent and way of speaking had been completely chilenizada- one of my favorite conversation topics, by far. For reals.
At the synagogue they separated the men and women (only done during the High Holy Days apparently), and I went upstairs with David's wife. The ladies were all milling around and catching up with each other and taking care of their young children. When the Rabbi began talking, I assumed that this would all stop, but it didn't! Many of the women spent the service gossiping, showing their cell phones to their friends, and loudly demanding that the most adorable little children give them many besitos- kisses. It was definitely a different experience for me, especially since at Congreation Kol Ami at home men and women aren't separated, and chit chat during services isn't common! It was nice to see that the women were all so friendly and that they had a nice community around, but since I didn't have any one to gossip with (David's wife left to go to a seat for paid temple members and I stayed in the back in the seats for non-paid members), it wasn't really my style. Also not my style- at least 5% of the women were wearing leopard print. To Yom Kippur services. Definitely a first for me.
Today I fasted, but decided not to go to services. Instead, I did a deep cleaning (for a clean start) in my apartment and I took a nice long walk to a market to get a new basil plant since mine didn't survive its summer vacation with a classmate of mine. I also prepared a delicious pesto (but not with the new basil from the plant, with some purchased previously!) for my break the fast food. I took the day off from working on my thesis and I've been relaxing, thinking about the past year, and doing some reading. So while I'm bummed that I didn't feel more comfortable at the synagogue, it was still a nice introspective day.
I hope everyone is having a good weekend, and for those Jews in time zones behind me, may the rest of your fast be an easy one!
leopard print at services - and I thought this was the conservative place? where you couldn't even wear anything but white?!?
ReplyDeleteI'm sad that your experience wasn't a great one, but at least you tried it out. Yet another cultural experience!
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